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Just Raleigh and me, and TG makes three
Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 06:44PM 
It me (NCMA)
Is this thing on?
I'll assume so.
For my birthday, which fell on the seventh of March this year just as it does every year, TG and I took a weekend trip to Raleigh, North Carolina.
Oakwood Cemetery: Look away, Dixieland
The whole thing was my idea. I wanted to go somewhere, but not anywhere far.
Raleigh is the second-largest city in North Carolina (Charlotte is numero uno) and its capital city, and the seat of Wake County.
Eat at Elmo's: Breakfast all day
It forms one side of the famed Research Triangle, the other two sides being Durham and Chapel Hill.
The name "Research Triangle" was earned partly because the region is home to three major educational institutions: Duke University, The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, and North Carolina State University (NC State).
Ronald Bladen: Three Elements (NCMA)
It was the weekend before the world went crazy and we, along with most everyone else, were the walking, talking embodiment of Almost-Ignorance-Is-Still-Bliss for precisely one more week.
The Sunday following our trip, we were "allowed" to go to church only for morning services.
Duke Chapel: Soar skyward
Looking back through the prism of coronavirus and the subsequent virulent lie-fest and money- and power-grabs, it all seems so innocent: Americans enjoying their God-given freedoms. Before that became a crime.
(Yesterday at Publix, where people were walking around with masks on their chins -- ??? -- or standing outside with masks pulled down so as to smoke a coffin nail, there were massive signs hanging from the rafters telling us to Be Kind and assuring us that We'll Get Through This.)
Henry Spencer Moore: Knife Edge (NCMA)
(Oh shut up, I said, out loud.)
(The last thing I need is for the grocery store, where I choose to spend my money, to start telling me what to think and how to behave. What is this? A preschool? Besides. I'm always kind unless/until someone gives me reason to be otherwise.)
Oakwood Cemetery: On a clear day you can see forever
(At any rate, most people, including TG and me, were oblivious to the bossy directional floor decals until we were halfway down the aisle. Going the "wrong" way. Guess that's not working out too well either.)
But I digress. I'd ask for forgiveness but as I'm a known recidivist, I won't bother.
Duke Chapel: Gothic splendor
We set out for Raleigh -- three-or-so hours from Columbia by car -- in mid-morning on the sixth of March. I'd picked out a breakfast-all-day place called Elmo's Diner in Durham, near the Duke campus, which was our second destination.
Elmo's was pleasant enough; we were seated in a sunny covered patio area with weathered wood floors and lots of light. Our server was as helpful as she was cheerful, and vice versa.
Auguste Rodin: Pierre de Wissant (NCMA)
Always looking to recreate my sublime Fall Foliage French Toast experience from last October, I scanned the menu for something similar.
The closest I could get was a dish that involved whole-wheat pancakes with a topping of granola that had been mixed with cranberries and a jam-like substance and I'm not describing it very well but it was delicious.
Oakwood Cemetery: Take up thy cross
I don't remember what TG had; I never do. Apologies. But whatever it was, he consumed it lustily and pronounced it good.
That done, we set out for Duke. Known as the Harvard of the South, Duke is a private university founded in 1838 by Methodists and Quakers. Originally situated in another North Carolina town and undergoing several name changes in its first century, the school moved to Durham in 1892.
Oakwood Cemetery: House of Memory
According to Wikipedia: In 1924, tobacco and electric power industrialist James Buchanan Duke established The Duke Endowment and the institution changed its name to honor his deceased father, Washington Duke.
He who pays is he who says.
Trivia: President Richard Nixon graduated third in his class from Duke University School of Law in 1937.
Roxy Paine: Askew (NCMA)
The West Campus of Duke looks as though it was built in a different century than the one to which it in fact belongs. As such, it is an enduring tourist attraction.
The towering gothic presence of Duke Chapel, cornerstone laid in 1930, conjures images of Oxford, England, during the time of the Plantagenet Kings.
Duke Chapel: Keep looking up
Being a card-carrying anglophile, I was all about that.
The day was chilly and windy, with spates of raininess that never really developed but threatend the whole time. In other words, perfect.
Oakwood Cemetery: Peace out
While TG looked for a parking space, I wandered around the chapel and took my pictures. I went inside, where someone was playing the organ. It sounded pretty much like heaven.
Very shortly a group of people assembled in the front of the chapel (which seats 1,800) to rehearse a wedding that would take place the next day.
It us (NCMA)
I'll bet those folks are glad they got married when they did.
Without disturbing the wedding party, we investigated a side mini-chapel that contains sepulchres of Dukes long departed, complete with life-size marble effigies of the deceased decorating the tops of the tombs.
Duke Chapel: In eternal remembrance
An ancient-looking winding stone staircase led to a chamber down below with the same vaulted ceilings of Indiana limestone. There wasn't much to see there other than to gawk at the intricate architecture.
Having done all we could in the chapel, we went back out into the overcast day. We checked out the food service hall (think fancy food court where, if you have a student ID, you eat for "free") and the gift shop.
Duke: Empty chairs and empty tables
Outside in the courtyard, it looked as though everyone had already left for home and coronavirus lockdown. It was only the weather that kept everyone from gathering there, though.
Still, the pictures -- together with similar ones I took two days later -- seem oddly and eerily prescient.
Iris Restaurant (NCMA)
In the gift shop, I took a few pictures of ball caps and neckties all Duked-up and sent them to my son-in-law, Joel, to tease him. I asked if he wanted anything for his birthday in May.
(Joel is a die-hard lifelong University of North Carolina fan. Arch-rivals of Duke. He wouldn't wear a Duke hat or tie even if it could make him ten years younger.)
Duke: And the skies opened
He responded that all he wanted from Duke was that his team, the Tar Heels, beat them in basketball the next day.
As we left the campus, we passed Cameron Indoor Stadium where the tents of K-Ville were already up and occupied ahead of Saturday's contest with the Blue Devils' cross-town rival.
Oakwood Cemetery: Cross it when we come to it
Duke won that game; the Tar Heels went down in defeat. Our Joel was disappointed.
There's always next year.
It me (NCMA)
The next day -- my actual birthday -- TG and I enjoyed a relaxing and delicious buffet breakfast at our hotel before setting off for Oakwood Cemetery in Raleigh.
I know; right? I like to visit cemeteries on my birthday. What can I say? I'm a taphophile as well as an anglophile.
Duke Chapel: Vaulted and vaunted
As historic cemeteries go, Oakwood was a trifle less than what I'm used to. It's old, but not nearly as spectacular monument-wise as I'd hoped.
Still, we met an extremely cordial gentleman in the office who offered to show us some noteworthy headstones and share with us some history of Raleigh's departed, and it was truly special and I loved every minute of that.
Oakwood Cemetery: Enter thou here
We saw the grave of Jim Valvano, one-time head basketball coach at NC State, who died of cancer in 1993 at the age of forty-six.
We marveled (and not in a good way; they are hideous and I will not apologize for saying that and no, I will not show pictures to prove my point) at the monuments to Elizabeth Edwards and her son, Wade.
Oakwood Cemetery: RIP Jimmy V
After the unexpected treat of our short guided tour, as is our habit in larger cemeteries, TG and I went our separate ways. He likes to drive slowly around, consulting a map for notable graves; I like to wander on foot wherever the spirit leads, taking pictures.
There is a large Confederate section at Oakwood, complete with a gothic-style House of Memory.
Duke Chapel: Open wide
I loved how three stone benches in succession were used to convey this quote:
'Tis the cause, not the fate of the cause, that is glorious.
Indeed.
Duke Chapel: It me
An hour or two before I would have thought possible in such a situation, I was forced to confront the fact that it was my birthday, and I was not having as much fun as I should be.
I saw the Raven moseying not far away, and waved, and walked towards it. I told TG what was up. He said what he always says: What do you want to do?
Oakwood Cemetery: Enshrined
I'd heard of a local chocolate factory I wanted to visit, so we did that. It was unremarkable and by then I was peckish so we ended up at a restaurant where you can sit in a booth in a window and look out onto the city street. I love that.
We chilled for a while before ordering from the brunch menu. I loved the coffee mug that they served my coffee in so much, that I bought one for my collection, and one each for Audrey and Erica. They were tending to my pets in my absence.
Duke: Mysterious architecture
Later we located a unique gift shop and found a few small presents for Dagny, who always asks that we bring her something.
The next day, we had brunch at another breakfast-all-day place, the name of which I have already forgotten; it was that forgettable. Adequate but not repeat-visitable.
Oakwood Cemetery: Dream the view
Then we made our way to the North Carolina Museum of Art (known colloquially to the locals as NCMA), which turned out to be a wonderful surprise.
It wasn't that I expected it to be mediocre; I just wasn't prepared for how impressive it is. I'd love to go back someday and explore it further. Admission is free, even if you don't live in North Carolina.
Duke: For outdoorsy types
The museum has tons of art outside in its park-like surroundings. I love outside art installations and the weather was glorious, so we took our time appreciating as many of those as we could.
Once inside the smallish museum, we were enthralled with the exhibits and collections. It was special. I didn't expect to see Rodin sculptures on my trip to Raleigh, but I did.
Oakwood Cemetery: In my hand no price I bring
(Actually they were bronze casts of original Rodin sculptures, but no less amazing to behold.)
There were lots of interesting paintings, and some quirky installations that I enjoyed.
I happened upon Iris, billed as a sophisticated full-service restaurant, but like the plaza at Duke, it was deserted.
Duke Chapel: I'll take the center aisle
Maybe its emptiness was owing to the time of day; I'm not sure. At any rate, we weren't there to eat. But I couldn't help noticing that an entire wall of the space was decorated with an unusual twirly-twig piece that was fascinating. It resembled gigantic interconnecting bird nests.
According to the NCMA web site, it is a site-specific sculpture by Patrick Dougherty featuring branches and boughs from the surrounding area, further enhancing the dining experience by bringing the outdoors in.
Although I had no dining experience beneath said branches and boughs, I will not argue with that.
Oakwood Cemetery: Confederate section
Eventually we were obliged to head for home. I'm so happy that we had one last relaxing trip free of the drama and angst that have been visited on the world since that carefree time.
As much as I'd like to take a black Sharpie to most of the events of the past eight weeks, we have had other enjoyable times since our trip to Raleigh.
Duke Chapel: Oblique view
I'll be telling you about them soon, and eventually about others yet on the horizon.
Life does have a habit of going on.
Until then, thanks for reading. Be well and as happy as it is possible for you to be.
Oakwood Cemetery: Engraved in stone
Remember that 'tis the cause, not the fate of the cause, that is glorious.
And the glorious cause is what it has always been: Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness.
And that is all for now.
=0=0=0=
Happy Wednesday
Reader Comments (11)
Wow - such beautiful photos today. I love the buildings! The architecture, the stained glass windows. I would have been In my glory! Sorry the cemetery wasn't up to par, but good for TG for always being such a good guy and taking you where you want to go.
I'm glad you got this in before everything closed down. And don't get me started on all that!
@Mari ... hahahaha I won't because that would get me ranting and you don't want that. Do you? Yes it was a wonderful gift, that trip. Wish you had been there with me. xoxo
Well - if you got started we could rant together!
I would have loved to be there - we would have had such fun!
Our church is having services tomorrow, although our governor has closed down the state for another 2 months. So, next time you hear from me I may be in jail...
@Mari ... oh dear. If I lived in Michigan I fear I'd already be in jail. But you get to GO to church? You're doing better than we are! Next week we can go for an 11 a.m. service only, and only some of us can go, and of course it won't be anything like we're used to. All of this nonsense will continue until the election. Mark my words. xoxo
What a great birthday trip! I love the skies you had - my favorite is Peace Out where the branch is holding the cloud. Henry Moore is one of my favorite sculptors. I like his use of negative space. What was that hanging from the angel in Take up Thy Cross? The Duke chapel is awe inspiring. I would have gotten a stiff neck from looking up. Do you know what that tree is with the freckled bark at the Duke cafe? Too many questions but what else do have I have but curiosity? Thank you for your sweet e-note. We're well and even got some good news. I must write but have been kind of lazy about my e-mail answering. Happy Mother’s Day my friend!
@Barb ... no worries about when/if you send an email! Good news is welcome any time. You SAW the cloud caught in the branches! Not everyone would. I thought that was so charming. The angel's necklace was shells that had been strung together. Sometimes people "decorate" cemetery statues; I'm never quite sure why but I like to think it's for some good reason. Isn't that bark fabulous? I have no idea what it is but recently TG added an app to his phone that identifies trees and flowers if you take a picture of them. I'll ask him to run that one through and get back to you. He takes pictures on his daily bike ride and has fun knowing what everything is that's blooming. I wish you could walk with me in my neighborhood and smell the honeysuckle! And yes the Henry Moore sculpture was pretty great as was its setting. I'm not especially enamored of modernism as a rule but I could look at Knife Edge all day. Speaking of days, I hope you have a pleasant one! xoxo
@Barb ... I got the app that TG has -- it's called Picture This -- and ran that picture through it. It identified the tree as a Chinese Elm, also known as a Lacebark Elm. Sweet! xoxo
So, so glad y'all were able to make that wonderful trip before (you don't want to know how I feel about what's going on, or even what I call it). That was a great birthday present, Jenny. I enjoyed the pictures, you always take good ones, and I love that you share! :)
Take care, my friend.
xoxo
@Sally ... Oh girl I wish you would tell me what you call it. I imagine it's a lot like what we call it at our house, hahahahaha! But you stay safe because that's best. Yes we were so carefree on that trip, although there was already "buzz" about the situation. It was a truly special getaway. xoxo
I want to join the "rant party"! And Sally, I want to know what you call it! I need a catchy name for the ridiculousness! Loved the pics Jenny and they serve as a great trip reminder for me too as we visited there recently when our son was living over that way.
Stay well everyone - while I really don't want to catch the Covids, I am sad that I'm rapidly losing the freedom to do just that...
@Sydney ... I truly could not have put it better myself. That's awesome: I don't want to catch the COVID but I want the freedom to catch it. Seriously I do believe a proper rant is in order ... stand by. You won't have to wait long. Isn't Raleigh charming? I can't wait to go back. I wish we could go together. Love you my friend! xoxo